new york city
Customers would say that this wasn’t their mother’s Southern food. Alexander’s reply: “Do I look like your mama?”
We all know the name — but who was the man himself? A new biography tells the story of how James Beard navigated the complicated codes of being a gay, closeted food celebrity in midcentury America.
We follow a young truffle dealer as he hustles his way across New York City, then try to figure out why people pay so much for this funky fungus.